As in every sport, every individual player understands the methods of playing the game in various ways, levels and perspectives. The way Sachin Tendulkar, The Master Blaster understands the
cricketing shots could be different from the style The Captain Cool, Mahendra Singh Dhoni
comprehends. Similarly, the fashion in
which the genius in The Rocket, Ronnie O’Sullivan cognizes the aspects of a
perfect snooker stroke could be different from The Great Stephen Hendry’s
comprehension. Ultimately there is no
right or wrong way in their approaches because anything that brings out the
results is a right way in my opinion, which all these champions have done in
their own ways in their selected sports.
What really matters is how well a player grasps the nuances of the game
and then applies that knowledge into various aspects and scenarios of the sport,
sometimes even outside of the sport.
Simply this is one major differentiator in these top sports superstars
to have taken their game to the level to which they have taken to.
On the similar lines, having played the game of snooker for
couple of decades now, I have gathered my own understanding of the cue
sports. Not to argue that my knowledge
on the cue sports is comprehensive, but this attempt is to document my humble thoughts
and opinions on my game at this point of time.
In other words, this post is just a reflection of my own understanding
of the snooker techniques and may not be factually right always. Read it as the viewpoints from an amateur
player.
Taking a helicopter view of potting the ball, it all depends
on 2 major parameters:
- How exact do you hit at the intended spot on the cue ball?
- How straight do you propel your cue stick to hit the cue ball?
To be able to consistently achieve both the above factors, there
are 2 fraternities of the game that the player has to master– the mental part and the physical part. I call the physical part as the techniques of
the game and I will be talking only about this area in this post. Breaking it
further down, the physical technique part comprises of 3 major components – the stance, the grip and the bridge, not
necessarily in that order of importance.
The stance to an
extent dictates the effectiveness of the grip and the bridge, so I would say
the stance is the foundation for a nice firm grip and a solid bridge. The stance that works for me is something on
the lines of photo below, i.e. right toe pointing at a direction 30 degrees to
the cue line of aim and my left feet is parallel to the cue line of aim. The feet are as far as possible but within my
natural and comfortable standing position.
As much as possible the body weight comfortably and naturally falling
forward, supporting on the table.
The grip is an
interesting area for me as I have experimented with heaps of grip styles. I would say if you have found your ideal grip
then 80% of the battle is won, that is the kind of significance I would lay on
this key technique item. The grip should
be able to accommodate the myriad of shorts like the top ball, middle ball, stun
shot, stun follow, soft screw and the most aspired and dreaded deep screw
shots.
At the moment, I am playing with a grip with major support on the thumb and the index finger. Rest all the 3 fingers are just for support as needed. The elbow swings like a pendulum to deliver the cue with little movement in the wrist. Inspired by what Nic Barrow demonstrates here: http://www.kadasl.com/uploads/1/2/5/6/12565774/tsg_benefits_of_the_finger_tip_cueing_exercise.pdf.pdf
At the moment, I am playing with a grip with major support on the thumb and the index finger. Rest all the 3 fingers are just for support as needed. The elbow swings like a pendulum to deliver the cue with little movement in the wrist. Inspired by what Nic Barrow demonstrates here: http://www.kadasl.com/uploads/1/2/5/6/12565774/tsg_benefits_of_the_finger_tip_cueing_exercise.pdf.pdf
The best part of this 2 fingers grip style is that this is
the only way I am able to keep the cue flat and low and more importantly able
to generate more action in the cue ball with less power. Eventually, the flat and fluid cue motion
helps to play deep screws effectively.
Of late, I have been watching the cue action of Stephen Lee’s Rolls
Royce cue action videos and trying to imbibe some of his techniques like
squeezing the butt for deep screws.
Another interesting observation on timing the shot for long deep screws
is the squeeze (with all 5 fingers on the butt) should happen for a fraction of
the second exactly when the tip touches the cue ball. This timing tremendously increases the action
in the cue ball for deep screw shots. The
trick is in keeping the cue nice and low, accelerating smoothly without jerks/
jabs and a good long follow through.
I found it true and interesting that I read in a blog that the cue action should be smooth and slow like the way one walks under the water, contradicting to the conventional thought that power is required for deep screws. Experientially I would have to agree with this hypothesis.
I found it true and interesting that I read in a blog that the cue action should be smooth and slow like the way one walks under the water, contradicting to the conventional thought that power is required for deep screws. Experientially I would have to agree with this hypothesis.
Back to the grip style, as Shaun ‘The Magician’ Murphy holds
here, I try to grip the cue in a similar fashion. This is as if I am going to grab the cue from
the table bed and hit someone on their head! An youtube video coach says the grip on the cue should be as subtle as possible like holding a soft bird, which I can't agree more. This grip acts like a hinge for any length of straight line travel of
the cue stick within the pendulum action from the elbow.
The bridge is the
simplest among the 3 techniques but if not properly done can have humongous negative implications on
the stroke delivery – so let us not under estimate the significance of the
bridge! Simply put, the bridge decides
the height at which the tip addresses the cue ball and therefore the behaviour
of the cue ball. Apparently, the bridge
should be flexible enough to raise high for a top ball shot and low down for a
deep screw shot allowing the cue stick to be able to move in a straight line
parallel to the bed of the table. What
is crucial about the bridge is to have a solid and firm bridge that does not
move or slip which otherwise can lead to miscues. The other argument is to have a short or long
bridge i.e. the distance of the cue tip from the bridge. I find more in control of the shot with the
shorter bridges. Simply because the
margin for error is less with shorter bridges as it naturally restricts both
the unintended vertical and horizontal cue stick movements.
Overall, it is of paramount importance to master these 3
pillars of the game for one to be able to excel in the green baize game. As I am continuously working on fine tuning the techniques
hopefully leading to my first century break soon, it is crucial to be more
mindful of every minute detail that happens before, during and after the moment
of cue delivery. I will try and share
more of my experiences and knowledge as I travel slowly but steadily the uphill
journey filled with the moments of learning and joy.
